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A remodeled kitchen with a wood island, painted cabinets and a plaster range hood

IKO Kitchen Remodeling Nationwide

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A small remodeled galley kitchen with cabinets to the ceiling
A walk-in pantry with wood shelving
A remodeled kitchen with a waterfall island and wood cabinets
An open kitchen and dining area after a remodel
A galley kitchen opened up to the dining room with a new peninsula
A remodeled hall bathroom with subway tile and a floating vanity
A remodeled primary suite with built-in wardrobes and a window seat
A garage converted into a guest room and home office
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IKO Kitchen Remodeling: The San Jose Owner’s Guide

If you’ve got an IKO kitchen component that’s failed or is starting to show wear, we stock the replacement parts and do the install work here in San Jose. A full IKO-compatible kitchen remodel in San Jose typically runs $16,520 to $53,100, but if you’re just replacing a single failed part, the number lands much lower. You’ll know the part has failed when you see something that was flush now pulling away, something that was quiet now creaking or grinding, or finish that’s bubbling, peeling, or swollen. Most San Jose homeowners catch it mid-cycle: not a full tear-out, but past the point where ignoring it makes sense.

Call (669) 274-2362

We’re an independent remodeling contractor in San Jose, not affiliated with IKO. That matters because we can source IKO-specific components or quality equivalents without being tied to one supply chain, and we install against a written price and a written 365-day guarantee. If the replacement part fails inside that year, we come back and fix it at no charge. That’s the Kingswell standard we operate under, and it’s been the rule since 2004.

Which IKO Models This Applies To

New painted shaker cabinets with an organized deep drawer

IKO manufactures a broad range of residential building products, and in kitchen applications the parts that typically need matching are cabinet hardware mounting plates, sink clips and brackets, drawer glide assemblies, and the occasional backsplash trim or edge profile. The compatibility gotcha most San Jose homeowners run into is this: IKO’s older series hardware used a 32mm drilling pattern on the drawer front, while newer lines moved to a 35mm cup hinge bore. If you order a hinge based on the brand name alone, you’ll drill and it won’t seat. Bring us the old part, or send a photo with a quarter next to it for scale, and we’ll match it before we ever set foot in your kitchen.

You have two paths: OEM IKO parts, which guarantee a factory fit but sometimes carry a 2-to-3 week lead time depending on the distributor’s California stock, or quality aftermarket equivalents that match the bore pattern, travel length, and load rating. For a drawer glide rated at 100 pounds, we won’t substitute a 75-pound unit to save you $6. The aftermarket route only makes sense when the spec matches exactly. On cabinet boxes and face frames we typically keep FastCap and Blum equivalents on the truck, because they hold a finish screw in MDF better than the original hardware does after a decade of San Jose’s dry summers and damp winters.

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Kitchen remodeling
Kitchen remodeling
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Home additions & ADU
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Windows & doors
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Driveway & pavers
Fence
Fence

Signs Your IKO Kitchen Remodeling Is Failing

  • Drawer fronts sit crooked or scrape the cabinet frame when you close them. That’s almost always a worn drawer glide or a hinge plate that’s loosened in the bore. In San Jose’s climate, the MDF substrate expands and contracts through the season, and the original screws slowly wallow out the holes.
  • The cabinet door won’t stay closed, or slams harder than it used to. The soft-close damper inside the hinge cup has blown its seal. Once the hydraulic fluid leaks out, you’re left with a bare hinge with no cushion at the end of travel.
  • You hear a grinding or metal-on-metal sound when you open a drawer. The ball bearings in the glide have flattened or the nylon tire on the roller is gone. Running it longer scratches the rail and makes the replacement job harder.
  • The sink has dropped a fraction of an inch below the countertop line. That’s a failed sink clip or a degraded epoxy bond. Left alone, water works into the gap and starts soaking the particleboard underneath. By the time you see the laminate start to swell, the substrate is mush.
  • Caulk lines around the backsplash have cracked and pulled away from the tile. This is the earliest warning flag in a San Jose kitchen. Foundation settling plus seasonal movement cracks brittle caulk, and water follows the crack straight into the drywall or plaster behind it.
Before & after

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Recent Project
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Full Restoration
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Complete Upgrade

Replacement Cost & What’s Included

A stone counter, tile backsplash and open shelf after a kitchen remodel

If you’re replacing a single failed IKO part rather than remodeling the whole kitchen, the San Jose installed number is usually between $165 and $740 depending on the part and access. Full IKO-compatible kitchen remodels run $16,520 to $53,100, and the spread comes down to cabinet line, countertop material, and whether we’re moving plumbing or electrical. Small kitchens start at $10,620 and usually top out around $23,600. Backsplash work runs $945 to $2,950. Kitchen island installations land between $3,540 and $11,800.

Every one of those numbers includes the part, the labor, disposal of the old material, and a written workmanship warranty on top of whatever the manufacturer covers. The price we put in writing before we start is the price on the invoice. No verbal ranges, no change order surprises. If the part fails inside 365 days, the return visit is free.

DIY or Call Us?

Some things you can safely check yourself: measure the hinge bore spacing with a tape measure, note whether the glide is side-mount or under-mount, and take a photo of any stamped numbers on the part. That helps us match it before we come out. What you shouldn’t do is start pulling cabinet boxes apart or drilling new hinge bores into MDF. One misaligned bore and the entire door hangs wrong, and once MDF loses its screw hold, you’re repairing the substrate, not just swapping hardware.

None of this is high-tension or electrical work, so it’s not dangerous in the way a garage spring is. It’s more about precision. Give me the real problem and I’ll give you the real number. Call (669) 274-2362, tell us what’s failing, and we’ll get you a written price before any tool leaves the truck.

FAQs

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